MODEL REFERENCE
Singer M1500
9 troubleshooting topics · 90 guides

The checks and guides below come from the official manuals for this model.
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Troubleshooting
Find the problem you are experiencingUpper thread breaks6 checks
- The machine is not threaded correctly.
- Rethread the machine.
- The thread tension is too tight.
- Reduce the thread tension. (lower number)
- The thread is too thick for the needle.
- Select a larger needle.
- The needle is not inserted correctly.
- Remove and reinsert the needle. (flat side towards the back)
- The thread is wound around the spool holder pin.
- Remove the reel and wind thread onto reel.
- The needle is damaged.
- Replace the needle.
Lower thread breaks2 checks
- The bobbin case is not inserted correctly.
- Remove and reinsert the bobbin case and pull on the thread. The thread should pull easily.
- The bobbin case is threaded wrong.
- Check both bobbin and bobbin case.
Skipped stitches4 checks
- The needle is not inserted correctly.
- Remove and reinsert needle. (flat side towards the back)
- The needle is damaged.
- Insert a new needle.
- The wrong size or type of needle has been used.
- Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
- The foot is not attached correctly.
- Check and attach correctly.
Needle breaks4 checks
- The needle is damaged.
- Insert a new needle.
- The needle is not correctly inserted.
- Insert the needle correctly. (flat side towards the back)
- Wrong needle size for the fabric.
- Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
- The wrong foot is attached.
- Select the correct foot.
Loose stitches4 checks
- The machine is not correctly threaded.
- Check the threading.
- The bobbin case is not correctly threaded.
- Thread the bobbin case as illustrated.
- Needle/ fabric/ thread combination is wrong.
- The needle size must suit the fabric and thread.
- Thread tension wrong.
- Correct the thread tension.
Seams gather or pucker3 checks
- The needle is too thick for the fabric.
- Select a finer needle.
- The stitch length is incorrectly adjusted.
- Readjust the stitch length.
- The thread tension is too tight.
- Loosen the thread tension.
Uneven stitches, uneven feed3 checks
- Poor quality thread.
- Select a better quality thread.
- The bobbin case is incorrectly threaded.
- Remove bobbin case, thread and insert correctly.
- Fabric has been pulled.
- Do not pull on the fabric while sewing, let it be drawn through by the machine.
The machine is noisy2 checks
- Lint or oil have collected on the hook or needlebar.
- Clean the hook and feed teeth as described.
- The needle is damaged.
- Replace the needle.
The machine jams1 check
- Thread is caught in the hook.
- Remove the upper thread and bobbin case, turn the handwheel backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread.
Guides
Important safety instructions
Instructions from the manualUse the machine safely17 steps
- Read all instructions and retain them near the machine; pass them to any third party.
- Never leave the plugged-in machine unattended.
- Keep the outlet easily accessible.
- Unplug immediately after use and before cleaning, removing covers, lubricating or other user servicing.
- Use only for its intended purpose and with manufacturer-recommended attachments.
- Closely supervise use by or near children; it is not a toy.
- Do not operate a damaged, malfunctioning, dropped or water-damaged machine: return it to an authorized dealer or service center.
- Keep machine and foot-control ventilation openings clear of lint, dust and loose cloth.
- Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the needle.
- Use the proper needle plate and straight, undamaged needles; do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
- Wear safety glasses.
- Switch off (0) for needle-area adjustments, including threading, needle changes, bobbin threading and presser-foot changes.
- Do not insert objects into openings, use outdoors or operate near aerosol products or administered oxygen.
- Set all controls off before unplugging; grasp the plug, never the cord.
- Do not put objects on the foot control or use the machine wet.
- Have a damaged LED lamp or foot-control cord replaced by the manufacturer, its service agent or similarly qualified personnel.
- Use identical replacement parts for this double-insulated machine.
For cenelec countries only:
Instructions from the manualObserve CENELEC country limitations5 steps
- For CENELEC countries only: children aged 8 or older and people with reduced capabilities or insufficient experience may use the appliance only with supervision or instruction in safe use and understanding of the hazards.
- Children must not play with it or clean/maintain it without supervision.
- Normal operating noise is less than 75 dB(A).
- Use only FC-2902D (220–240 V) foot control manufactured by Zhejiang Founder Motor Corporation, LTD (Vietnam), 4C-326G (230 V) or 4C-336G (240 V) manufactured by Wakaho Electric Ind.
- Co., Ltd (Vietnam).
For non cenelec countries:
Instructions from the manualObserve non-CENELEC country limitations5 steps
- For non-CENELEC countries: persons, including children, with reduced capabilities or insufficient experience should use the machine only under supervision or instruction from a person responsible for safety.
- Supervise children so they do not play with it.
- Normal operating noise is less than 75 dB(A).
- Use only the listed foot controls: KD-1902 or FC-1902 (110–120 V); KD-2902, FC-2902A, FC-2902C or FC-2902D (220–240 V), manufactured by Zhejiang Founder Motor Corporation, LTD (Vietnam); or 4C-316B (110–125 V), 4C-316C (127 V), 4C-326C (220 V), 4C-326G (230 V) or 4C-336G (240 V), manufactured by Wakaho Electric Ind.
- Co., Ltd (Vietnam).
Servicing of double insulated products
Instructions from the manualService double-insulated products4 steps
- This double-insulated product has two insulation systems instead of grounding.
- Do not add grounding.
- Servicing requires extreme care and system knowledge and must be done only by qualified service personnel.
- Replacement parts must be identical to those in the product; look for DOUBLE INSULATION or DOUBLE INSULATED markings.
Machine basics
Instructions from the manualIdentify the front partsView
The front diagram identifies: 1 thread tension dial; 2 thread take-up lever; 3 thread cutter; 4 presser foot; 5 needle plate; 6 removable extension table/accessory storage; 7 pattern selector dial; 8 bobbin winding stopper; 9 reverse sewing lever.
Unpack the machineView
Put the box on a steady, flat surface. Lift the machine out, remove the outer packaging, then remove the remaining packing material and plastic bag.
Identify the rear parts and foot controlView
The rear/control diagram identifies: 1 thread guide; 2 bobbin winder spindle; 3 spool pin; 4 handwheel; 5 power and light switch; 6 main plug socket; 7 bobbin thread guide; 8 handle; 9 face plate; 10 presser foot lifter; 11 foot speed control; 12 power cord.
Connect the machine to power8 steps
- Connect the machine to the power source as shown in the reviewed diagram.
- Use the appropriate polarized outlet for the polarized plug.
- If the plug does not fit fully, reverse it; if it still does not fit, have a qualified electrician install the proper outlet.
- Never modify the plug.
- Consult a qualified electrician if unsure how to connect it.
- Press the main switch to I for power and light.
- The foot-control pedal regulates sewing speed.
- Unplug when not in use.
Raise the presser foot for thick fabrics2 steps
- For several fabric layers or thick fabrics, raise the presser foot to the higher position to make positioning easier.
- The machine is adjusted for normal room temperature; extreme heat or cold can affect stitching.
Identify the supplied accessories2 steps
- Standard accessories are: all-purpose foot, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, darning plate, L-screwdriver, seam ripper/brush, two spool-pin felts, three needles and four SINGER Class 15 bobbins.
- For additional feet, attachments and accessories that may be available, consult Singer.
Threading the machine
Instructions from the manualWind the bobbin10 steps
- Put the thread spool and spool-pin felt on the spool pin.
- Pass the thread through the upper thread guide, then clockwise around the bobbin-winder tension discs.
- Thread the bobbin as illustrated and place it on the spindle.
- Push the spindle right, hold the thread end and press the foot pedal.
- After a few turns, release the pedal and thread; cut the thread as close as possible to the spool, as shown.
- Press the pedal again.
- When full, the spool turns slowly: release the pedal and cut the thread.
- Push the spindle left and remove the bobbin.
- While the spindle is in bobbin-winding position, the machine does not sew and the handwheel does not turn.
- Return the spindle left for sewing.
Insert the bobbin5 steps
- Fully raise the needle and switch the power off (0) before inserting or removing the bobbin.
- Open the hinged cover, pull the bobbin-case tab and remove the case.
- Hold the case and insert the bobbin with its thread running clockwise.
- Pull the thread through the slit and under the finger, leaving a 6-inch tail.
- Hold the case by its hinged latch and insert it into the shuttle.

Diagram key
- 1: Open the hinged cover; the bold arrow points downward as the cover opens.
- 2: Pull the bobbin-case tab and remove the case; both fine leader and pull arrow concern the tab/case.
- a: Bobbin-case tab, in compartment 2.
- 3: Insert the bobbin with thread running clockwise; both the bobbin-insertion arrow and curved thread-direction arrow are retained.
- 4: Pull thread through the slit and under the finger, leaving a 6-inch tail; the arrow follows the exiting thread.
- 5: Hold the bobbin case by its hinged latch; the arrow identifies that grip.
- 6: Insert the bobbin case into the shuttle; the retained arrow shows the insertion direction.
Thread the upper thread8 steps
- Switch off for needle-area threading, as required by the safety instructions.
- Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) until the needle is highest and the handwheel mark points up.
- Raise the presser foot to release the tension discs.
- Put the spool and felt on the spool pin.
- Pass the thread through the upper guide, around the next guide as illustrated, down the right tension channel and up the left channel; holding the thread between spool and guide helps.
- Pass it right to left through the take-up lever’s slotted eye, then down.
- Pass behind the thin wire needle-clamp guide and thread the needle from front to back.
- Pull 6–8 inches to the rear beyond the needle eye and trim with the built-in cutter.

Diagram key
- 1 (both): Raise the needle to its highest position with the handwheel mark pointing up and raise the presser foot. The main overview and compartment 1 show the handwheel; the curved arrow shows turning it toward you (counterclockwise).
- 2 (both): Place thread spool and felt on the spool pin; the downward arrows show their placement in overview and compartment 2.
- a: Spool-pin felt, shown beneath the spool in compartment 2.
- 3 (both): Thread through the upper thread guide; overview and compartment 3 retain the same path and arrows.
- 4 (both): Guide thread around the next guide, following the path shown in the overview and compartment 4.
- 5 (both): Lead thread down the right channel and up the left channel; the full two directional paths are shown in the overview and compartment 5.
- 6 (both): Pass right to left through the take-up lever’s slotted eye, then down; overview and compartment 6 show the same path.
- 7 (both): Pass behind the thin wire needle-clamp guide and then thread the needle front to back; overview and compartment 7 retain the path.
- 8 (both): Pull 6–8 inches of thread toward the rear and trim with the built-in cutter; overview and compartment 8 show that final path.
Raise the bobbin thread5 steps
- Hold the upper thread in your left hand.
- Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise), lowering then raising the needle.
- If the bobbin thread is difficult to raise, check that it is not trapped by the hinged cover or removable extension table.
- Gently pull the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread through the needle-plate hole.
- Lay both threads toward the rear under the presser foot.
Adjust thread tension7 steps
- The basic upper-tension setting is 4.
- Turn to a higher number to increase tension, or a lower number to reduce it.
- For straight stitching, balanced top/bottom stitches are normally desired: loose upper tension needs a higher number; overly tight upper tension needs a lower number.
- For zigzag and decorative sewing, a small amount of upper thread should appear on the underside; upper tension should generally be lower than for straight stitching.
- Bobbin tension is factory-set and does not need adjustment.
- No single setting suits every stitch, thread and fabric; the guide states that 90% of sewing falls between 3 and 5.
- Upper thread appearing beneath decorative work gives nicer stitches and less puckering.
Sewing
Instructions from the manualChoose a stitch pattern3 steps
- Turn the pattern-selector dial in either direction to select a stitch.
- Choose the straight-stitch or zigzag patterns shown in the source figure for those stitch types.
- The figure labels a as the pattern-selector dial and b as the reverse-sewing lever.

Diagram key
- a: Pattern-selector dial; turn in either direction to select a stitch.
- b: Reverse-sewing lever.
Sew a straight stitch3 steps
- Select straight stitch.
- Put the fabric under the presser foot with its edge aligned to the desired seam guideline on the needle plate.
- Lower the presser-foot lifter, then press the foot control to sew.
Secure a seam with reverse sewingView
At the beginning and end of a seam, press the reverse lever and sew a few reverse stitches. Release the lever to resume forward sewing.
Remove the work2 steps
- Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) until the take-up lever reaches its highest position and the needle begins descending.
- Raise the presser foot and remove the work behind the needle and foot.
Cut the threadView
Pull the threads under and behind the presser foot, guide them beside the face plate into the thread cutter and pull down to cut.
Sew a blind hem7 steps
- The blind-hem pattern is for stretch fabrics.
- Always make a sewing test first.
- Turn the hem up to the required width and press.
- Fold it back against the fabric’s right side, leaving about 7 mm (1/4 inch) of the hem’s top edge projecting to the right of the fold, as illustrated.
- Sew slowly on the fold so the needle just catches one or two fabric threads.
- Unfold and press when finished.
- An optional blind-hem foot can make this easier.
Sew zippers and piping4 steps
- Use the illustrated straight-stitch setting.
- Switch off to change to the zipper foot; attach it right or left according to the sewing side.
- To pass the zipper tab, lower the needle into the fabric, raise the foot, push the tab behind it, lower the foot and continue.
- The zipper foot also lets you sew cord into a bias strip to make welt or piping.
Use free-motion darning and stippling10 steps
- The darning/embroidery foot is optional and is not supplied.
- Install the darning plate.
- Switch off for foot/shank changes.
- Remove the foot shank and attach the darning/embroidery foot to the presser bar with its lever behind the needle-clamp screw.
- Press the foot firmly from behind with your index finger and tighten its screw.
- For darning, sew around the hole first to secure threads.
- Work the first row left to right, turn the work 90 degrees, then sew over the earlier stitching.
- A darning hoop is recommended.
- You move the fabric manually without the internal feed system; coordinate fabric movement with sewing speed.
- For stippling, select straight stitch and use the optional darning foot while sewing small meandering curves through the fabric and batting layers.
General information
Instructions from the manualInstall or remove the extension table3 steps
- Hold the extension table horizontally and push it into the machine in the illustrated direction.
- Pull it left to remove.
- Its inside is accessory storage; flip the cover down to open.
Change the presser foot and shank4 steps
- Switch the power off (0) for all these operations.
- Push the foot to disengage it from the holder’s cut-out.
- To attach the foot, fit its pin into the holder’s cut-out.
- To remove or attach the shank, raise the presser bar with the foot lifter and remove or attach the shank as illustrated.

Diagram key
- 1: Removing the foot; arrow shows it being pushed out of the holder’s cut-out.
- 2: Attaching the foot by fitting its pin into the holder’s cut-out.
- 3: Removing or attaching the shank after raising the presser bar.
- a (both): Presser bar, repeated in compartments 2 and 3.
- b (both): Presser-foot shank/holder, repeated in compartments 2 and 3.
- c (both): Holder’s cut-out, repeated in compartments 1 and 2.
- d: Foot pin, shown in compartment 2.
- e (both): Presser foot, repeated in compartments 1 and 2.
- + and tightening arrow: Tighten the shank fastening screw for attachment in compartment 3.
- − and loosening arrow: Loosen the shank fastening screw for removal in compartment 3.
Match needle, fabric and thread7 steps
- Match needle size to the thread and fabric weight.
- Sizes 9–11 (70–80): lightweight thin cotton, voile, silk, muslin, interlock, cotton knit, tricot, jersey, crepe, woven polyester, shirt and blouse fabrics; use light-duty cotton, nylon, polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread.
- Sizes 11–14 (80–90): medium cotton, satin, kettlecloth, sailcloth, double knit and lightweight woolens.
- Size 14 (90): medium cotton duck, woolen, heavier knit, terrycloth and denim.
- Size 16 (100): heavyweight canvas, woolen, outdoor-tent/quilted fabrics, denim and light-to-medium upholstery.
- For these medium/heavier groups, most medium-size thread is suitable; use polyester for synthetics and cotton for natural woven fabrics, with the same thread above and below.
- Size 18 (110): heavy woolen, overcoat and upholstery fabrics, some leather and vinyl; use heavy-duty thread.
Choose the needle type5 steps
- SINGER 2020 standard sharp needles range from size 9 (70) to 18 (110), for natural woven wool, cotton and silk; they are not recommended for double knits.
- SINGER 2045 scarfed ball-point needles range from 9 (70) to 18 (110), for natural/synthetic woven fabric, polyester blends and knits including polyester, interlock, tricot, single/double knits, sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric and elastic.
- SINGER 2032 leather needles range from 12 (80) to 18 (110), for leather, vinyl and upholstery, making a smaller hole than a standard large needle.
- For best results, use genuine Singer needles.
- Replace approximately every other garment and/or at the first thread breakage or skipped stitches.
Use the darning plate3 steps
- Use the darning plate for darning or freehand embroidery, installing it as shown to cover the feed teeth.
- Remove it for normal sewing.
- An optional darning/embroidery foot is recommended for free-motion work.
Maintenance and troubleshooting
Instructions from the manualInsert or replace the needle4 steps
- Switch the power off (0) before inserting or removing the needle.
- Replace needles regularly, particularly if wear causes problems; Singer recommends its own brand.
- Loosen the needle-clamp screw, insert the new needle with the flat shaft side to the rear and push it fully up, then tighten the screw.
- Needles must be in perfect condition: bent needles, damaged points or blunt needles can cause problems.

Diagram key
- 1: Needle insertion compartment; push the needle fully upward and secure it with the clamp screw.
- A (upper): Needle-clamp screw: loosen it before replacement and tighten after insertion.
- B (upper inset): The flat shaft side must face the rear.
- C/D (upper): Insert the needle as far upward as it will go; the C and D leaders and upward arrow show the insertion points/path.
- − and loosening arrow: Loosen the needle-clamp screw.
- + and tightening arrow: Tighten the needle-clamp screw after inserting the needle.
- 2: Damaged-needle comparison compartment; needles must be in perfect condition.
- A (lower): Bent needle.
- B (lower): Damaged needle point.
- C (lower): Blunt needle.
Clean and lubricate the machine10 steps
- Unplug from the mains before cleaning.
- Fully raise the needle with the handwheel.
- Open the hinged front cover and remove the needle-plate screws with the screwdriver.
- Brush the feed-teeth area with the supplied brush.
- Remove the bobbin case; swing both hook-retaining arms outward.
- Remove the hook-race cover and hook and clean them with a soft cloth.
- Apply 1–2 drops of sewing-machine oil at the illustrated point.
- Turn the handwheel until the hook race is on the left; replace the hook, race cover and retaining arms.
- Reinsert the bobbin case and bobbin, then replace the needle plate.
- Remove lint and threads regularly and have the machine serviced at regular intervals by a Singer service center.

Diagram key
- 1: Open the hinged front cover and unscrew/remove the needle plate with the needle fully raised; both arrows show removal directions.
- 2: Brush the complete feed-teeth area using the supplied brush.
- 3 (both): The two hook-retaining arms; snap both outward to release the hook-race cover, and back after reassembly.
- 4: Hook-race cover; remove for cleaning and replace afterward.
- 5: Hook; remove and clean with a soft cloth, then replace.
- 6: Lubrication point: use 1–2 drops of sewing-machine oil at the arrowed point.
- 7: Hook race; turn the handwheel until it is in the left position before replacing the hook.
- Disassembly arrows: Outward movement of the retaining arms and removal of cover/hook; reassemble in the written order, then reinsert bobbin case and bobbin and replace the needle plate.
Dispose of the machine safely4 steps
- Recycle according to applicable national electrical/electronic-product legislation.
- Do not put electrical appliances in unsorted municipal waste; use separate collection facilities and ask local government about available systems.
- When replacing an appliance, a retailer may be legally required to take back the old one free.
- Disposal in dumps or landfill can let hazardous substances leak into groundwater and the food chain.
Straight stitch
Instructions from the manualStraight Stitch — Seams3 steps
- The most common use for the straight stitch is for joining fabrics together with a seam.
- The machine needle plate has a series of etched markings to the right of the presser foot which serve as guidelines for various widths of seam allowances when sewing with the needle in center position.
- Line up the raw edges of the fabric with the desired seam allowance guideline to sew a seam.
Straight Stitch — Quilt Piecing3 steps
- Quilt piecing is done using a 1/4" seam allowance.
- After sewing, press seams toward the darker of the two fabrics, to help prevent the seam allowance from being visible on the top side of the quilt.
- It may be helpful to use a Quarter Inch Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
Straight Stitch — Topstitching5 steps
- Topstitching is a line of straight stitching on the outside of a garment or project, usually as a decorative embellishment.
- Set the machine for straight stitch, with a stitch length of 3 to 3.5mm.
- Sew 1/4" - 3/8" from the edge of the fabric.
- If sewing with topstitching thread, use a SINGER Topstitching Needle, size 90/14 for medium weight fabrics, or a SINGER Topstitching needle, size 100/16 for heavier fabrics.
- A Topstitching Needle (additional accessory) has a longer eye to accommodate thicker threads, such as topstitching thread which gives the stitches a bolder look.
Straight Stitch — Edge Stitching3 steps
- Edgestitching can be used to add stability to projects like tote bags, or it can be used simply as a decorative embellishment.
- Set the machine for straight stitch.
- Sew approximately 1/8" from the edge of the fabric.
Straight Stitch — Basting7 steps
- Basting stitches are used to temporarily hold fabrics together, for example, when you want to check the fit of a garment before sewing the actual seam.
- To set the machine for basting, if your machine has adjustable stitch length, select straight stitch with the longest stitch length setting.
- It is helpful to also slightly reduce the upper thread tension as well (this makes it easier to remove the temporary basting stitches later).
- Sew the row of basting stitches, and check the fit of the garment.
- When satisfied with fit, select the stitch length setting as needed for the project, and be sure to put the upper thread tension back to its original position.
- Sew the permanent seam.
- Remove the temporary basting stitches.
Straight Stitch — Decorative Stitching3 steps
- The basic straight stitch can be used to embellish fabrics.
- Experiment with various thread types to create your own unique design.
- It can be helpful to draw stitch guidelines on the fabric with a removable fabric marking tool, but make sure to use a fabric marker that is appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn.
Straight Stitch — Free-Motion Quilting6 steps
- Free-motion quilting means stitching together a backing fabric, batting, and top fabric, and the straight stitch is used to sew decorative designs as the layers are quilted together.
- To set the machine for free-motion quilting, first disengage or cover the machine's feed teeth (see your machine's manual for details).
- Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder.
- Attach a Darning / Embroidery Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- Select straight stitch.
- Move the fabric layers together manually as you stitch.
Straight Stitch — Thread Painting8 steps
- Thread painting is a type of free-motion sewing.
- Multiple thread colors can be layered to create colorful images.
- To set the machine for thread painting, first disengage or cover the machine's feed teeth (see your machine's manual for details).
- Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder.
- Attach a Darning / Embroidery Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- Select straight stitch.
- Place stabilizer or batting underneath the fabric.
- Move the layers together manually as you stitch.
Straight Stitch — Channel Quilting2 steps
- Create dimension in quilt layers by sewing several rows of stitches spaced apart.
- For best results, use an Even Feed / Walking Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which will help prevent the quilt layers from shifting as you sew.
Straight Stitch — Echo Quilting5 steps
- Echo quilting is sometimes called 'outline quilting'.
- This is done by following around the shape of an applique, a design printed in the fabric itself, or perhaps even an embroidery on the fabric.
- Set the machine for straight stitch.
- The thread color can either match the fabric, or it can be a contrast color, depending on the look you want.
- Sew the desired number of "rows" around the design to create interesting texture.
Straight Stitch — Attaching Trims3 steps
- Attach ribbons and trims to embellish fabrics.
- To attach aribbon or trim, set the machine for straight stitch.
- When stitching wider trims or those that tend to shift on top of the fabric while sewing, it can be helpful to use a fusible basting tape to hold it in place.
Straight Stitch — Raw Edge Applique4 steps
- Raw edge applique is one of the simplest ways to do machine applique, providing an organic appearance.
- First adhere the applique to the base fabric with fusible web.
- Stitch around the applique with a straight stitch, approximately 1/8" from its raw edge.
- Note: It can be helpful to use an Open Toe Foot (additional accoessory for some machine models) so you have a more clear view of the stitching area.
Straight Stitch — Twin Needle Pintucks8 steps
- Pintucks are used for texture on lightweight fabrics such as batiste.
- To create pintucks, set machine for straight stitch.
- Insert a SINGER Universal Twin Needle 1.6mm or 2.0mm (additional accessory).
- It is helpful to use a Pintuck Foot (additional accessory for some models).
- Place one thread spool on the main spool pin, and a second spool of thread on the auxiliary spool pin, with threads unreeling in opposite directions so they don't tangle while sewing.
- Note: If machine has no auxiliary spool pin, it may be helpful to use an external cone stand (additional purchase).
- Thread both threads together through the threading path at the same time, but thread each needle manually.
- Increase needle thread tension for more enhanced tucks.
Straight Stitch — Twin Needle Hems7 steps
- Twin needle hems provide a professional finish to garments.
- The top side has two parallel rows of straight stitching, connected with a zigzag on the back side.
- Twin needles (additional accessory) come in many of sizes, so choose one that provides the look you want for your project.
- Place one thread spool on the main spool pin, and a second spool of thread on the auxiliary spool pin, with threads unreeling in opposite directions so they don't tangle while sewing.
- Note: If machine has no auxiliary spool pin, it may be helpful to use an external cone stand (additional purchase).
- Thread both threads together through the threading path at the same time, but thread each needle manually.
- Turn the hem up and stitch from the top side, catching the raw edge as you sew.
Straight Stitch — Gathering6 steps
- Gathering takes a longer piece of fabric and shortens it by creating a series of small folds, used to create fullness.
- Gathers can be created various ways.
- For medium weight fabrics, set the machine for straight stitch with a long length setting, and then reduce the upper thread tension.
- Sew one row of stitches just inside the seam guide line, then sew another row about 1/8" next to that inside the seam allowance.
- Pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric.
- For lightweight fabrics, use this same method, or try using a Gathering Foot (additional accessory).
Straight Stitch — Pleating3 steps
- Pleating is creating a series of consistently sized folds in fabric, creating fullness.
- Use the straight stitch, along with a Ruffler (additional accessory for some models) to sew evenly spaced pleats.
- Instead of manually pressing and basting the pleats individually, the Ruffler does all the work for you.
Straight Stitch — Zipper Insertion3 steps
- The main types of zipper insertion are the centered zipper, the lapped zipper and the fly front zipper.
- All these methods are done using the basic Zipper Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- There is another method zipper insertion method called the invisible zipper, for which an Invisible Zipper Foot Iadditional accessory for some machine models) is used.
Straight Stitch — Creating Piping5 steps
- There are times you may want to create your own piping, particularly if you want a specific color of piping for your project.
- Cut a fabric strip wide enough to wrap around the cord as well as provide ample seam allowance.
- The fabric strip should be cut on the bias, which will make it easy to insert the piping at corners and curves without puckering.
- Set the machine for straight stitch.
- Use a Zipper Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) to help sew closer to the piping.
Straight Stitch — Inserting Piping5 steps
- Piping can be used in home decor, fashion and accessory sewing, and more.
- It can be purchased pre-made in packages, or you can make it yourself.
- To insert piping, sandwich the piping between the fabric layers, with the bulk of the piping on the left side.
- It may be helpful to baste the layers together before stitching them at the machine.
- Set the machine for straight stitch and attach the Zipper Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
Straight Stitch — Narrow / Rolled Hems2 steps
- Very narrow hems can be stitched at the edge of light to medium weight fabrics using a Narrow Hem Foot, sometimes called a Rolled Hem Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- This foot has a small scroll in front that feeds the fabric while the machines sews a straight stitch to secure the hem in place.
Straight Stitch — Topstitched Hems3 steps
- Sew simple hems using a straight stitch.
- The stitches will be seen on both the top side and back side of your project.
- Use a thread that matches the fabric for a hem that is less noticeable, or choose a contrasting thread for a bold appearance.
Straight Stitch — Understitching4 steps
- Understitching is used to help prevent a waistline or neckline facing from rolling to the outside.
- Set the machine for straight stitch.
- Sew though the facing and seam allowance only.
- The understitching will not be visible from the outside of the project.
Straight Stitch — Stay Stitching4 steps
- Sleeves, necklines, and princess seams are curved and can become distorted and difficult to join to the rest of the garment.
- Stay-stitching is used to help stabilize fabric by preventing stretching and distortion.
- Set the machine for straight stitch.
- Sew just inside the seam allowance.
Straight Stitch — Darning4 steps
- Small holes or tears in fabric can be repaired using a Darning / Embroidery Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) and the straight stitch.
- Place a small piece of fabric behind the area to be repaired.
- Set the machine for straigth stitch, cover or disengage the feed teeth (check your machine manual), and thread the machine with a color that blends well with the fabric.
- Manually move the fabric in a back-and- forth motion as you step on the foot control.
Zigzag stitch
Instructions from the manualZigzag Stitch — Seam Finishing2 steps
- The zigzag stitch can be used as a seam finish to help prevent fabric edges from unraveling.
- If your machine has adjustable stitch length and stitch width, select a medium stitch length and width - using a width that is too wide may cause the fabric edge to tunnel under the presser foot.
Zigzag Stitch — Applique7 steps
- The most popular stitch for machine applique is the satin stitch, created using a zigzag stitch.
- The stitches are sewn around the edge of the applique to attach it to the main fabric.
- The right movement of the needle sews just off the edge of the applique, and the left movement of the needle sews into the applique.
- If your machine has adjustable stitch length and stitch width, try experimenting on scrap fabric to find the exact settings you want for your applique.
- Set the width at a medium setting to start, and adjust from there.
- The stitch length setting should be short enough so that you don't see fabric between the stitches, but not so short that the stitches don't feed under the foot.
- It can also be helpful to use a Satin Stitch Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which has a groove on the bottom to allow dense stitching to pass freely underneath.
Zigzag Stitch — Couching5 steps
- Create interesting surface embellishment using the zigzag stitch to sew over lightweight cords or yarns.
- If your machine has adjustable stitch width and stitch length, choose a stitch width setting that is wide enough to cover the cord, without actually stitching into the cord.
- Choose a stitch length setting that is long enough to see the cord without covering it up.
- It can be helpful to use an Open Toe Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which provides a clear area in front of the needle as you sew.
- Use a slow speed and take your time for maximum control.
Zigzag Stitch — Decorative Stitching6 steps
- Sew the zigzag stitch to create texture in fabric.
- Experiment with various thread types and colors.
- If your machine has adjustable stitch length and stitch width, try different settings to customize the look you want for your project.
- For denser stitches such as when sewing a satin stitch, use a Satin Stitch Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- If using thicker threads such as 12wt cotton, use a larger size needle so that the thread passes freely through it.
- It is recommended to use a stabilizer underneath the fabric to help support the stitches.
Zigzag Stitch — Attaching Trims5 steps
- Use the zigzag stitch to sew over ribbons and trims.
- It's an easy way to embellish projects.
- Set the zigzag width based on the width of the ribbon.
- If your machine has adjustable stitch length, the stitch length should be set at a fairly long setting so the ribbon is visible between the stitches.
- It is helpful to use an Open Toe Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which provides a clear view of the sewing area.
Zigzag Stitch — Elastic Insertion4 steps
- Insert elastic easliy with the zigzag stitch.
- For elastic that is 1/4" - 3/8" wide, place the elastic though the opening of the All-Purpose Foot.
- This will help keep the elastic from slipping from left to right as you sew.
- Hold the elastic from in front and in back of the presser foot, stretching the elastic as you do so.
Zigzag Stitch — Gathering8 steps
- For some fabrics, gathering can be a challenge.
- Try using your machine's zigzag stitch to create a "casing" over a cord.
- Place a knot at one end of the cord.
- For machines with adjustable stitch width, select a width setting that is wide enough to cover the cord, but not actually stitch the cord itself.
- If the machine has adjustable stitch length, select a fairly long stitch length setting.
- It is helpful to use a Cording Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which has a groove to guide the cord easily as you stitch the zigzag.
- When stitching is done, pull the cord to gather the fabric.
- See a demonstration of this technique in the Cording Foot video.
Zigzag Stitch — Free-Motion Monograms8 steps
- Create monograms in any size or style by moving your fabric in free-motion mode.
- To set the machine for free-motion monograms, first disengage or cover the machine's feed teeth (see your machine's manual for details).
- Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder.
- Attach the Darning/Embroidery Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- Select the zigzag stitch.
- Place a piece of stabilizer underneath the fabric to give the stitches added support.
- It may be helpful to draw your monogram on the main fabric using a removable fabric marker, to help guide you.
- Move the layers together manually as you stitch.
Zigzag Stitch — Thread Painting9 steps
- Thread painting is a type of free-motion sewing.
- Multiple thread colors can be layered to create colorful images.
- To set the machine for thread painting, first disengage or cover the machine's feed teeth (see your machine's manual for details).
- Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder.
- Attach the Darning / Embroidery Foot (additional accessory for some machine models).
- Select the zigzag stitch.
- For machine models with adjustable stitch width, adjust the stitch width as desired for your project.
- Place batting or stabilizer under the fabric.
- Move the layers together manually as you stitch.
Zigzag Stitch — Roll & Whip Heirloom Hems9 steps
- Heirloom sewing incorporates several different techniques, and one of these techniques is the Roll & Whip Hem, done using a zigzag stitch.
- This hem works on fine, lightweight fabrics like batiste.
- Thread the machine with lightweight thread.
- A size 9/70 or 11/80 needle (additional accessory for some machine models) is recommended.
- Set the machine for zigzag stitch.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, use with a width setting of at least 5.0mm and a length setting of approximately 2.0mm.
- Use an Open Toe Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) so that the area in front of the needle is unobstructed.
- Position the fabric so the right movement of the zigzag goes off the edge of the fabric.
- As the stitch then moves to the left, it "rolls" the fabric over, stitching it in place.
Zigzag Stitch — Attaching Hook Closures9 steps
- Use the zigzag stitch to attach some larger sizes or styles of hook and eye closures.
- Disengage or cover the machine's feed teeth (see your machine manual).
- Select the zigzag stitch.
- For sewing larger sized hook & eye closures, attach the Button Sewing Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) which helps hold each side of the closure securely and provides a clearer view of the stitching area than does the All- Purpose Foot.
- Place the closure piece on the fabric underneath the foot.
- Turn the handwheel toward you slowly to check that the left and right movement of the needle clears the closure piece.
- If the needle doesn't clear both holes, adjust stitch width (if your machine has adjustable stitch width) accordingly until it does.
- Sew several stitches to attach.
- Bring thread tails to back of fabric and tie to secure.
Zigzag Stitch — Hemstitching7 steps
- Hemstitching is a sewing techique used to create delicate heirloom hems.
- Sew beautiful hemstitching using a simple zigzag stitch and a SINGER size 90 Wing Needle (additional accessory for some machine models).
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, set the stitch width at 3.0mm and the stitch length at 2.0mm.
- Turn up the hem allowance and sew, catching the raw edge of the hem as you go.
- The needle will make small holes in the fabric, creating a delicate finish.
- Best results come when sewing organdy, organza or batiste.
- A fabric spray starch can make fabrics easier to manage, as well.
Zigzag Stitch — Lettuce Edging6 steps
- Sew a zigzag stitch to create a "wavy" hem, sometimes called a "lettuce edge".
- This technique is for stretch knit fabrics such as t-shirt or jersey.
- Set the machine for the zigzag stitch.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, select a medium stitch length and stitch width setting.
- Sew along the raw edge of the fabric, stretching the fabric from both front and back as you go.
- When you release the fabric, the result is a wavy, curly edge.
Zigzag Stitch — Attaching Lace9 steps
- Heirloom sewing incorporates several different techniques, and one is to attach lace using a zigzag stitch.
- This works on fine, lightweight fabrics like batiste and lace that has a flat edge on one side.
- Thread the machine with lightweight thread.
- A size 9/70 or 11/80 needle (additional accessory for some machine models) is recommended.
- Set the machine for zigzag stitch.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, select a width setting of at least 5.0mm and a length setting of approximately 2.0mm.
- Use an Open Toe Foot (additional accessory for some machine modeles) so that the area in front of the needle is unobstructed.
- Position the lace on top of the fabric about 1/8" to the left of the fabric edge, then position this so the right movement of the zigzag goes off the edge of the fabric and the left movement catches the flat edge of the lace.
- As the stitch then moves to the left, it "rolls" the fabric over, stitching it to the lace.
Zigzag Stitch — Edge Joining9 steps
- Two fabrics can be joined together using a zigzag stitch.
- First, turn under and press the edge of both fabrics.
- An Edge Joining Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) can be used a a guide for the fabrics.
- Place the folded edges next to each other, one on each side of the foot's center guide, and place a piece of lightweight stabilizer underneath the area where they join.
- Select the zigzag stitch.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, select the length and width setting you want for your project.
- Sew across the area where the fabrics join, so the left movement of the needle sews on the left fabric, and the right movement of the needle sews on the right fabric.
- Remove the stabilizer when finished.
- Try using a topstitching thread and Topstitching Needle (additional accessory for some machine models) for a bolder appearance to the stitches.
Multi-step zigzag stitch
Instructions from the manualMulti-Step Zigzag Stitch — Mending6 steps
- Holes, rips or tears in fabric can be repaired easily with the multi-step zigzag stitch.
- This stitch sews 3 small stitches each time it moves left to right and right to left.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, set the machine for a wide stitch width and shorter stitch length setting.
- Place a small piece of fabric (that blends well with the main fabric) underneath the hole or tear.
- Sew the stitch arcoss the tear.
- Repeat until the hole or tear is sufficiently covered with stitches.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Decorative Stitching4 steps
- The multi-step zigzag sews 3 small stitches each time it goes left to right and right to left, which can create a unique decorative element.
- Create interesting texture and surface embellishment for your fabrics by sewing multiple rows of this stitch.
- Experiment with various types of thread such as rayon thread, all-purpose thread, metallic thread, topstitching thread, or even 30wt and 12wt cotton.
- Be sure to use a needle that is appropriate for the type of thread you are using.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Couching4 steps
- Use the multi-step zigzag stitch, along with a Cording Foot, to add interesting surface dimension to your projects.
- The Cording Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) has grooves on top that help guide thin yarns or cords as you stitch over them.
- The stitch "catches" the cords to secure them to the fabric surface.
- It is helpful to use a tear-away stabilizer underneath as you sew to help prevent fabric puckering.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Elastic Insertion5 steps
- The multi-step zigzag sews 3 small stitches each time it goes left to right and right to left, making this stitch strong yet flexible.
- Use it to easily sew elastic onto fabric.
- For elastic that is 1/4" - 3/8" wide, place the elastic through the opening of the All-Purpose Foot.
- This will help keep the elastic from slipping from left to right as you sew.
- Hold the elastic from in front and in back of the presser foot, stretching the elastic as you do so.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Attaching Trims4 steps
- Use the multi-step zigzag stitch to attach ribbons and trims.
- It's an easy way to embellish projects.
- It is helpful to use an Open Toe Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which provides a clear view of the sewing area.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length or stitch width, set the stitch length and stitch width according to the look you want for your project.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Seam Finishing2 steps
- The multi-step zigzag stitch can be used as a seam finish to help prevent fabric edges from unraveling.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and stitch width, select a medium stitch length and width and sew along the raw edge of the fabric to finish the edge.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Bartacks3 steps
- A bartack is a series of stitches used to reinforce high-stress areas of garments such as belt loops, pockets, zippers, etc.
- The multi-step zigzag sews 3 small stitches each time it goes left to right and right to left.
- When stitch length is set to "0", or if the machine's feed teeth are either covered or disengaged, the stitch can be used to sew bartacks,
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Edge Joining9 steps
- Two fabrics can be joined together using a multi- step zigzag stitch.
- First, turn under and press the edge of both fabrics.
- An Edge Joining Foot (additional accessory for some machine models) can be used a a guide for the fabrics.
- Place the folded edges next to each other, one on each side of the foot's center guide, and place a piece of lightweight stabilizer underneath the area where they join.
- Select the multi-step zigzag stitch.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length or stitch width, select the length and width setting you want for your project.
- Sew across the area where the fabrics join, so the left movement of the needle sews on the left fabric, and the right movement of the needle sews on the right fabric.
- Remove the stabilizer when finished.
- Try using a topstitching thread and Topstitching Needle (additional accessory for some machine models) for a bolder appearance to the stitches.
Multi-Step Zigzag Stitch — Joining Batting4 steps
- Use the multi-step zigzag stitch to join pieces of batting to create a larger batting piece.
- It's great for creating a custom sized quilt or other quilted projects, and also a great way to use up smaller batting leftovers.
- The multi-step zigzag sews 3 small stitches each time it goes left to right and right to left, which helps make the join secure.
- Use the widest stitch width possible for maximum coverage.
Stretch blind hem stitch
Instructions from the manualStretch Blind Hem Stitch — Stretch Hems2 steps
- Use a Blind Hem Foot (may be optional for some machine models) in conjuction with your machine's blind hem stitch to sew hems that are virtually invisible from the right side of the fabirc.
- This blind hem stitch is designed for use with stretch fabrics like t-shirts, jersey and more.
Stretch Blind Hem Stitch — Decorative Stitching4 steps
- Use this stitch to embellish your sewing projects with a single row, multiple rows, or even in combination with other decorative stitches.
- Experiment with various types of thread such as rayon thread, all-purpose thread, metallic thread, topstitching thread, or even 30wt and 12wt cotton.
- Use a needle that is appropriate for the type of thread you are using.
- It is also helpful to use a stabilizer to help support the stitches.
Decorative stitch
Instructions from the manualDecorative Stitch — Scallop Hems7 steps
- Use this decorative stitch to add a scalloped hem to projects like table linens, children's clothing, and much more.
- Select the scallop decorative stitch.
- If your machine has adjustable stitch length and stitch width, set the stitch width to its widest setting and the stitch length to a short setting so that you don't see fabric between the stitches.
- Use a Satin Stitch Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which will allow the dense stitching to pass freely underneath the foot.
- Use a wash-away or very light tear-away stabilizer under the fabric.
- Sew the stitch, then remove the stabilizer.
- Use a fine point scissor to trim away excess fabric, leaving a scallop hem at the edge.
Decorative Stitch — Decorative Stitching5 steps
- Use this stitch to embellish your sewing projects with a single row, multiple rows, or even in combination with other decorative stitches.
- For machine models with adjustable stitch length and/or stitch width, try various stitch length and/ or width adjustments to change the look of the stitch as desired.
- It may be helpful to use a Satin Stitch Foot (additional accessory for some machine models)for denser stitch settings, as this foot has a groove on the underside to allow stitches to pass freely underneath.
- Experiment with various types of thread such as rayon thread, all-purpose thread, metallic thread, topstitching thread, or even 30wt and 12wt cotton.
- Be sure to use a needle that is appropriate for the type of thread you are using, and stabilizer to help support the fabric and stitches.
Decorative Stitch — Attaching Trims3 steps
- Stitch along the sides of ribbons or flat trims with this decorative stitch, as an easy way to embellish projects.
- It is helpful to use an Open Toe Foot (additional accessory for some machine models), which provides a clear view of the sewing area.
- For machines with adjustable stitch length and/or stitch width, set the stitch length and stitch width according to the look you want for your project.
Controls and parts
See the manual diagrams 3 diagrams

Diagram key
- 1: Thread tension dial
- 2: Thread take-up lever
- 3: Thread cutter
- 4: Presser foot
- 5: Needle plate
- 6: Removable extension table / accessory storage
- 7: Pattern selector dial
- 8: Bobbin winding stopper
- 9: Reverse sewing lever

Diagram key
- 1: Thread guide
- 2: Bobbin winder spindle
- 3: Spool pin
- 4: Handwheel
- 5: Power and light switch
- 6: Main plug socket
- 7: Bobbin thread guide
- 8: Handle
- 9: Face plate
- 10: Presser foot lifter
- 11: Foot speed control
- 12: Power cord

Diagram key
- a: All-purpose foot
- b: Zipper foot
- c: Buttonhole foot
- d: Darning plate
- e: L-screwdriver
- f: Seam ripper / brush
- g: Two spool-pin felts
- h: Three needles
- i: Four SINGER Class 15 bobbins
Model details
Model and compatibility
- Bobbins
- SINGER Class 15; four bobbins are listed among standard accessories.
- Darning foot
- The darning/embroidery foot is optional and is not included.
